Dear Daisy,

I have been asked by a friend to take her measurements for a costume she is ordering online.  Can you tell me what are the common measurements needed and how to take them correctly?

–          The Measurer

 

Dear Measurer,

Taking measurements can be daunting task however if you follow a few simple rules I’m sure you will manage fine.

 

Some websites have their own instructions for the specific measurements they require, while others give you only a basic idea of what they need.  Below is a description of some of the most common measurements you might need to take and how to take them.    Remember that most online stores want their product to fit you when it arrives so always feel free to ask questions if you are unsure how to take a measurement that’s required.  Also make sure you know if the measurements are required in inches or centimetres, most companies use inches but some work in centimetres so it is always good to double check.

 

When measuring you will need a flexible dressmaker’s measuring tape and a pen and paper to jot down the measurements as you go.  Make sure that all measurements are taken with the measuring tape snug but not tight, if you pull the tape tight you can get an incorrect final number.

 

When taking measurements get the person being measured to wear either, just the bra and underwear they would wear with the garment they are being measured for, or a very thin t-shirt and exercise pants.  Any heavy clothing or thick waistbands will create inaccurate measurements and can lead to an ill-fitting final garment.

 

Common Measurements for Women:

 

1. Over Bust:

Place your measuring tape under the arms and around the chest above the breasts, making sure the persons arms are at their sides and not raised up in the air.  Draw the measuring tape snug then make sure that the person can still breathe normally before you write down the final number.

 

2. Bust:

Measure around the fullest part of the breasts making sure to keep the measuring tape level  do not let the measuring tape slip higher or lower at the back than it is in the front.

 

3. Chest:

Place the measuring tape around the chest directly below the person’s breasts.  Again make sure that when you draw the measuring tape snug it does not restrict breathing.

 

4. Waist:

This measurement is taken at the natural waist which is the narrowest part of the torso and falls between the bellybutton and the lowest ribs.  Note this is not where you wear your pants and skirts, this is your actual waist. Sometimes it helps to wrap a string around the natural waist to help determine where the narrowest point is.

 

5. Upper Hip:

Measure the upper hip around the hip bones, just below or on where you would normally wear a low ride pant or skirt.

 

6. Low Hip:

This is measured around the fullest/largest part of the hips, usually 8”- 9” below the actual waist.  Make sure the measuring tape lays flat around the hips and over the bottom and does not tip up or down in the front or back.

 

7. Back Length:

Measure from the last vertebra in the neck to the natural waist line; remember this is not where you wear your pants.  It sometimes helps to tie a belt or piece of string around the natural waistline while measuring as this gives you a visual reminder of where the waist line really is.

 

8. Shoulders:

Measure across the back from shoulder to shoulder.  You want to measure about ½” in from the point of the shoulder across the back to the same spot on the opposite shoulder.

 

9. Arm length:

Measure from the point of the shoulder to just past the wrist bones, along the outside length of the arm.  Make sure to do this with the arm bent at the elbow or the sleeves will be too short when the person goes to bend their arm.

 

10. Skirt Hem Length:

This is the distance from where you will wear the skirt waist band of your new garment (this varies person to person and garment to garment and is mostly due to personal preference) to where you would like your hem to end.  This can be brushing the floor or as high above the floor as you would like.  Just remember that most skirts can be hemmed up if you decide they are too long but they cannot be let down.  I prefer to take this measurement at the centre front, on the side at the hip, and in the centre back going down over the bottom.  I find that often there can be more than a 3” difference in the skirt hem length from front to back so it is often advantageous to have all three measurements.

 

11. Shoulder to Floor:

Measure from the top of the shoulder down the back all the way to the floor.  Make sure the person is standing level and does not drop one shoulder while taking this measurement.

 

These are just some of the basic measurements that you may be required to take.  Hopefully this quick synopsis helps you to feel more comfortable taking measurements and if you have questions please ask them, most companies are very helpful if you approach them politely and are more than willing to describe how to take any additional measurements they might require.

 

–          Daisy

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Dear Daisy,

I recently decided that I am in need of a bag of essential items, to take with me when I go somewhere to perform, and was wondering if you have a list of packable “can’t live with-outs?”

–          Prepared

 

Dear Prepared,

Yes, absolutely, I have a handy little bag of essential items I take with me to every show.  Here is a quick run-down of what I stow in my bag when I go out to dance:

 

Costume Emergency items:

–          Static Guard (a must have if you use chiffon or silk)

–          Clear Nail Polish (great for stopping fraying or runs in knit fabrics)

–          Safety Pins, large and small (we all know what these are for)

–          Clear Bra Straps (backups in case one of mine ever breaks)

–          Mini sewing kit (including button thread and mini scissors)

 

Personal Emergency items:

–          Cover-up (a veil can work in a pinch if you don’t have an actual cover-up)

–          Hand Mirror

–          Towel

–          Foot Undies (in case of carpet or rubber flooring)

–          Makeup  (for touch ups, including eyelash glue and lipstick)

–          Bobby pins and hair spray (for those emergency hair moments)

–          Pain killer

–          Granola Bar or protein shake (for when the adrenaline starts to wear off)

–          Water Bottle (I like the refillable kind so I always have something to drink)

–          Back up copy of music (in case of technical difficulties)

 

I like to keep most of these items packed into a dance bag that I can grab and go, knowing I have everything I need without the stress of having to pack every time I perform.
For me performing should be as fun and stress free as possible and with a little pre-planning your show day can run smoothly allowing you to forget the little things and dance to your full potential.

–          Daisy

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Dear Daisy,

I am relatively new to costuming and am wondering if you can give me any advice regarding fasteners.  What kinds work best and what to avoid, that sort of thing.

–          Sewing for self

Dear Sewing for self,

In dance costuming there are several kinds of fasteners available.  Let’s look at some of your options.

1. Hook and Eyes:

Arguably one of the most useful fasteners in the dance costume world they come in all shapes and sizes from teeny tiny to the large skirt hook and corset hook varieties.   I use these for closures on anything that is not stretchy and even some things that are stretchy.  I personally like the really large flat skirt hooks for fastening skirts, bra’s and belts and use the large open corset hooks for anything where there are too many beads and embellishments to make a flat hook practical.

2. Snaps:

I have to say that snaps are not that useful on their own.  They do not guarantee a secure hold and although they offer quick release I feel that is a dangerous trade-off for security.  The main reason I use snaps is as a secondary fastener.  I like to use them behind my hook and eyes to keep garments from shifting.  In this position they do not take load so they are safe to use and they make sure that the fabric can’t move thereby preventing the hook and eyes from coming open.  My other favourite place to use snaps is to fasten the layers of a costume together so everything stays in place.  Snaps are available in a large number of sizes, but for costuming purposes I prefer to use the 13mm, and 15mm sizes as they are large enough to offer a good solid hold.

3. Buttons:

I do not use buttons often however they can come in handy for converting bra’s to ex-backs or for bustling up skirts that you want to be able to wear both up and down.  I also use them as embellishments on fusion and tribal costuming as they come in some super funky designs.

4. Zippers:

These are great on costumes that are not stretchy or do not have enough stretch to make sliding in and out of them practical.  This often happens on costumes where the beadwork is heavy enough to interfere with the stretch or on fitted skirts made of satin or silk

5. Velcro:

Please don’t use Velcro on your costumes.  Anything made of chiffon, spandex, lycra or silk will catch and shred itself on the hook side of the Velcro.  Even if the costume you use it on doesn’t have any of these fabrics one day you will pack the costume in with your veil and get to a show with a major mess.

6. Laces:

Lace up costumes can be very pretty and effective.  Grommets and the smaller one sided version Eyelets make nice solid holes for lace up costumes.  Just remember to factor in change time as it is often a lengthy process to get in and out of a lace up costume.

I hope this helps answer some of your questions on what options are available.  So, happy sewing and I can’t wait to see lots of new costumes on stage soon.

– Daisy

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